Guide · checklist
The 22-point used IBC tote buying checklist
Twenty-two things to check before you pay for a used tote from any seller. Work through it in person, or ask the seller for photos that answer each point.
Ready to request totes?
Tell us the grade, quantity and location. A partner supplier will follow up; ask them for photos of the lot.
The bottle — points 1 to 7
- 1. Crazing. Fine spider-web cracking, especially around the outlet. Below the liquid line this is a deal-breaker.
- 2. Stress whitening. Pale, opaque patches where the wall has been deformed. Small areas are cosmetic; large areas suggest an impact and a weakened wall.
- 3. Bulging or distortion. Suggests over-pressure, over-filling or heat. The bottle should be symmetrical.
- 4. Interior residue. Shine a light through the lid. Film, crystals, sediment or a ring show what cleaning was actually done.
- 5. Odour. Open the lid and smell. A chemical or solvent note suggests permeation, which does not wash out.
- 6. Staining. Usually cosmetic. Some products stain permanently without any contamination issue.
- 7. Outlet area. A common failure point. Look for weeping, hairline cracks and previous repairs.
The cage and pallet — points 8 to 14
- 8. Weld integrity. Check the intersections. One broken weld may be repairable; several across the cage is a structural concern.
- 9. Bent bars. Lower bars take forklift hits. Bent can be straightened; folded or torn usually cannot.
- 10. Corrosion. Surface rust is normal. Rust through a bar means the cage is finished.
- 11. Top frame. Must be intact; it holds the bottle in place and takes stacking load.
- 12. Pallet. Look for splinters, delamination and cracks. Wooden pallets are often unwelcome in food environments.
- 13. Fork pockets. Should be square and undamaged on every side you need to lift from.
- 14. Base-to-cage attachment. Fasteners present and tight. A loose base can shift under load.
Hardware, paperwork and heel — points 15 to 22
- 15. Valve operation. It should open and close smoothly and hold. A stiff valve often means a swollen gasket.
- 16. Gasket condition. Swollen, cracked or sticky means chemical attack. Plan to replace it.
- 17. Outlet thread. Identify it so your fittings actually mate. See valve and cap thread sizes.
- 18. Outlet cap. Should be present. Without it, debris and insects may have got in.
- 19. Lid and lid gasket. Thread undamaged, gasket intact, vented if you will drain by gravity.
- 20. UN marking. Legible, and if you ship regulated goods, check the test dates. See IBC tote regulations.
- 21. Prior content records. Ask for the specific product and the filler. No record means no food, potable or edible-crop use.
- 22. The heel. Tip the unit slightly and look. Liquid you cannot identify is a liability that travels with the tote.
How to use this on a pickup or a marketplace purchase
Bring a flashlight, a phone, pH strips and gloves. Photograph all four sides, the marking, the valve and the interior. If a seller objects to photographs, that tells you something.
On a multi-unit purchase, inspect a random sample rather than the units placed at the front, including at least one from the back of the row. Graded stock should be consistent.
Finally, list the repairs. A tote with a swollen gasket, a missing cap and a damaged pallet may still be a reasonable buy once you account for the parts. Knowing that lets you negotiate on facts.
Optional scoring: turn the 22 points into a number
Score each point 0 (fail), 1 (needs attention) or 2 (good), for a maximum of 44. A rough rule of thumb, not a standard.
| Score range | Interpretation | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|
| 40–44 | Grade A condition | Most industrial duty; food only with documented history |
| 34–39 | Grade B condition | Non-critical bulk liquid |
| 26–33 | Grade C condition | Water, ballast, projects |
| 18–25 | Repair candidate | Only if you can repair or rebottle |
| Below 18 | Material value only | Recycling |
| Any score, crazing at the outlet | Not fit to hold liquid | Recycling |
| Any score, no history | Not for food use | Technical duty only |
The last two rows override the score. A tote with crazing at the outlet is a recycling unit however good the rest looks, and a tote with no known history should not enter food or edible-crop use.
Five questions to ask before you look at a tote
These come before the physical inspection and rule out many bad purchases early.
1. "What was in it, and who filled it?" A specific product and a specific source. A category is not an answer.
2. "How was it cleaned, and is there a record?" Rinsing, hot washing and caustic washing are different processes.
3. "Was it leak-tested, and when?" A simple fill-and-hold test catches the worst failure.
4. "What is the valve and gasket situation?" A weeping valve is one of the most common complaints about used totes.
5. "Where has it been stored, and for how long?" Indoor storage predicts condition better than age.
Then bring
A flashlight, a phone, gloves and a tape measure. Photograph all four sides, the marking, the valve and the interior.
Inspection questions
How long should inspecting one tote take?
A few minutes for a quick look, longer for all 22 points. On a large lot, quick-check every unit and run the full list on a random sample, including at least one from the back of the row.
What if I cannot open the lid?
Then you cannot inspect the unit properly. The interior is where most of the information is.
Do I need special instruments?
No. A good flashlight and your sense of smell catch most of what matters on a used container.
Can I use this checklist on new totes?
Most of it, yes. New units can arrive with transit damage, missing caps or the wrong valve. Points 15 to 22 apply as written.
The checklist as an on-site sequence
If you are standing next to the totes with a phone, work through it in this order.
Before you touch anything: ask what was in it, who filled it, how it was cleaned, and whether it was leak-tested.
Kneel down first. Shine a light on the outlet area from two angles. Crazing radiating from the outlet is a deal-breaker.
Open the lid. Shine the light across the wall at a shallow angle, looking for residue, sediment, a ring at the old liquid line and crazing.
Smell it. One breath over the open lid. A solvent, mint, citrus or garlic smell suggests permeation.
Press the wall between two ribs. A wall that flexes and springs back is healthy; stiff and creaking suggests UV damage.
Walk the cage. Look at the weld intersections and the lower bars.
Look underneath. Pallet, fork pockets and base fasteners. People skip this.
Work the valve. Open, close, and look at the gasket.
Photograph the marking. Manufacturer, date of manufacture, and test dates if they matter to you.
Tip it slightly. Liquid you cannot identify is a liability that travels with the tote.
Then list the repairs you found and negotiate on facts.
More inspection questions
What should I bring to an inspection?
A real flashlight, gloves, a tape measure, a phone for photos, and pH strips if chemistry is involved. Wear eye protection around working equipment.
How many units should I inspect in a large lot?
Quick-check everything and run the full list on a random sample, including units from the back of the row. If the front units are visibly better, the lot was sorted for display.
Is it rude to inspect this thoroughly?
No. A seller worth buying from will not mind.
Where people go from here
Reuse first, then recycle.